There’s a surprising number of options for overnighting in Wadi Rum. Everything from sleeping directly under the stars to keeping that view of the sky, but tucked up nicely in your own bubble tent, complete with indoor plumbing.
We fell in between. While no longer backpackers (and definitely never campers), we also realized that we had been chopping money on our three-week vacation through Egypt and Jordan. So we forwent the bubbles and booked our overnight with Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp. Around for 10 years, the camp offered well-reviewed jeep tours and an overnight in their private tents:
But lets rewind seven hours. We’d been up since 5:45 am and had already spent nearly two hours on a bus. There are other ways to get from Petra (Wadi Musa) to Wadi Rum, but this was the cheapest option at 7 JD/person (heads up, when the bus isn’t full, tickets go up to 10 JD).
Then we had to pay another 5 JD/person to enter Wadi Rum – in addition to being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is also a protected area. That means that even if you have a private car, you still need to rent a tour with the Bedouins, as they’re the only ones legally allowed to drive in Wadi Rum (and you’ll have to pay to park your car in the meantime).
We hopped off our bus at the Rest House and met our organizer, Mohammad. We collected another group – a French family of four – and made our way to Mohammad’s house so he could offer us a traditional cup of tea while our lunch supplies were gathered. After that, we were left in the charge of Mohammad’s university-aged nephew.
This kid served as driver, guide, and chef, all rolled into one.
Our first stop was the Lawrence’s Spring – an unassuming place named after Lawrence of Arabia. Only animals are allowed to drink from the spring now and there are Nabatean inscriptions on some of the rock face. But a short hike can take you to the start of the spring and, of course, the views of the desert are beautiful no matter where you stop.
We quickly saw that our truck accommodations could have been much worse (see previous photo). And we happily drove off in our Mitsubishi for our next stop: Khasali Canyon.
Our guide claimed that the Nabatean carvings were 1,700 years old and the Muslim inscriptions could be dated back 500 years. But what struck me was the rock itself. The canyon looked like melted wax dripping down from a candle.
Just like that, we were on the “road” again. It was starting to feel a bit odd. Drive, stop, photograph, repeat. But with the gorgeous desert all around us, it was hard to argue. And luckily, our next stop involved a wee bit of climbing.